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  “Cow Spot” Candles - Two Tone Candles
Candle Making Tutorial
Two Tone Spot Candles
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Copyright 2003-2004



I call these candles “Cow Spot” candles because they incorporate two distinct colors formed into random patterns, much like the spots on a cow. They are traditionally called two-tone candles. They have a rough-finish due to the cold temperature at which the wax is poured, a necessity to keep the colors from blending together. Each Cow Spot candle is unique, which is one of the reasons I like them so much. You can make these candles in any mold you like. The process is simple, and since the wax is so cool when you pour it, you don’t need to poke relief holes or make a second pour for these candles.



What You Will Need - Supplies

·        Molding Candle Wax

·        On or more Candle Molds

·        Candle Dye, different colors

·        Jiffy Wicker

·        1/0 square waxed wick or 34-37 flat cotton core waxed wick

·        Silicone Spray Mold Release (optional)

·        Steamer Pot or old Sauce Pan to create a double boiler

·        Two or more Standard Size or Small Size Melting Pots with pour spout, or other heat proof containers

·        Wood Stir Sticks, chopsticks, or something else to stir the wax

·        Thermometer

·        Scissors

·        Craft Knife

·        Candle Fragrance, (optional)


Also a good idea to have around:

·        Paper towels

·        Wax Remover

·        Aluminum Foil

·        Newspaper, butcher paper, or scrap paper to cover work surfaces

·        Fire Extinguisher (just in case)


How to Set Up Your Work Area

  1. Put down newspaper or butcher paper on tables and countertops to catch spills and for easy cleanup.
  2. Have paper towels and Windex on hand for cleaning stovetops.
  3. Wrap stove burner bowls in tin foil to catch drips of wax, and for easy cleanup afterwards.


Prep Your Mold

Inspect your mold to ensure that there is no residual wax on the inside surfaces or seams of your mold. If there is, remove it.



Spray the inside of your mold with Silicone Spray Mold Release. To do this, either follow the directions on the can, or hold the nozzle 8 to 10 inches from your mold and release the spray in short bursts. I little goes a long way with Silicone Spray Mold Release. (If you are using a plastic or rubber candle mold, do not spray it with Silicone Spray Mold Release, as it will ruin the mold.)


Wicking your Mold

Wick your mold using wick and your Jiffy Wicker, or mold sealer and a wick holder bar. (For instructions on how to use a Jiffy Wicker visit our tutorial on How to Use a Jiffy Wicker.)



Melting your Pillar Candle Wax

You will be preparing two different colors of wax at the same time. For this, you will need two steamer pots and two melting pots, or one steamer pot large enough to hold two melting pots or other heat safe containers in which to melt your wax.


Melting your Pillar Candle Wax

Fill the bottom part of your double boiler (the steamer pot or the deep sauce pan) with about two inches of cool water, and place on the burner set to high temperature.


A simple double boiler using an old sauce pan and a meting pot with a spout.


Place pieces of 139 degree Molding Candle Wax to be melted into the melting pot with a pouring spout, set the melting pot in the water, and attend to it as the wax liquefies. (When the water begins to boil, turn the heat down to medium low or low.)


If you have a large block of wax and need instructions on how to safely break it into smaller pieces, please visit our section on How To Break Up Wax Blocks


When the wax is entirely liquid (i.e., when there are no solid chunks any longer in the pot) you have successfully melted the wax.


Our 139 degree Molding Candle Wax melts at about 139 degrees F. The wax will continue to grow hotter as it remains in the double boiler. The temperature of the wax should get to 190 degrees F.


Separate the Wax

Before going to the next step, which is adding color dye chips, separate your melted wax into separate containers. You can use two spouted melting pots, or old soup cans, or some other heat safe vessel.


Adding Dye

After you have separated the wax into separate containers, add candle dye to each. Use contrasting colors, so that when your candle is finished, you will be able to see the two distinct colors.


Each of our diamond shaped dye chips colors 1 lb of wax. Use more or less candle dye for lighter or darker colored candles. Drop a dye chip (or part of a dye chip) into the melted wax, and stir until the dye chip is entirely dissolved into the liquid wax.


Adding Fragrance

After you have separated out your wax and created your different colors, add your candle fragrance, if you are using any, to each color. The standard ratio for our candle fragrance oils is one ounce of fragrance oil per 1 lb of wax. Use more or less fragrance for lighter or heavier scented candles. Add the candle fragrance to the melted and colored wax in each separate container, and stir each thoroughly to get even distribution of the candle fragrance.


You now have two separate containers with different colored wax in each.


Let the Wax Cool

In order to keep the different colors of wax distinct while pouring and setting your candle, the wax needs to be very cool when you pour it. Remove the containers from the heat source and allow the wax to cool at room temperature.


Let each color of wax cool until it reaches about 135 degrees. At this temperature, it will have developed a film. Stir the film into the still liquid wax, scraping semi-hard portions of wax from the sides and bottoms of the containers. The wax will take on a gloppy consistency. This is the correct time to pour the two-tone candles.




Pouring the Candles

When both of your colors are the same gloppy consistency, (at about 135 degrees F, more or less), begin pouring them at the same time into your candle mold.



Position your two pouring containers at opposite sides of the mold opening. Try to get each color to dribble down the inside edge of the mold as you pour. In this manner, they each have time to cool in the air before they meet in the middle, inhibiting the tendency for the colors to blend.



You can stop mid pour and turn the mold a little, then begin dribbling the candle wax into the mold again. This breaks up the monotony of a half-and-half candle and gives you that cow-spot look.



Because the wax is cool and gloppy when you pour it, the top of the candle will be of a rough, oat mealy texture. When you are finished pouring, let the candle cool.


Let Candle Cool

Since the wax will have been very cool when you pour it, there will not be very much wax shrinkage as the candle cools. If there is, you can use a little extra wax to fill the sink hole.


Remove The Candle From the Mold

When your candle has cooled completely, you may remove it from the mold. For instructions on how to disassemble a Jiffy Wicker and remove a pillar candle from its mold, see our instructions on Basic Pillar Candles.


Trim the Wick

When your candle is out of the mold, cut the wick at the bottom of the candle, so that it is flush with the bottom surface of the candle. Trim the wick at the top of the candle to ¼”.


Finished Two Tone Candles

You can use the rough end or the smooth end as the top of your candle, whichever you like better. This is also a great way to use leftover wax from other projects. The technique is easiest to use with pillar molds, but with practice can also yield positive results from ball molds, two piece molds, and votive molds as well.




Finish Notes:

·        For instructions on removing the mold seams from your pillar candles, see our reference section on Removing Seams from Candles

·        For instructions on leveling your candles (in the event that they came out tilted for some reason) please see our reference section on Candle Leveling



·        Never pour liquid wax down a drain. It will solidify in the pipes and cause a serious clog.

·        Pillar candles should be burned in approved pillar candle holders

·        Never leave a burning candle unattended.